We removed the hooks from 12 snook, and we left the hook intact and cut the leader in the other 12 snook. We found that four of the 12 deep-hooked snook died after the hooks were removed. None died when we simply cut the leader and left the hook alone. Fish are capable of rejecting, expelling, or encapsulating hooks.
Encapsulation is a process whereby the fishes' healing process causes the hook to be covered with an inert matrix of calcified material; or a-cellular tissue. Steel and bronze hooks are less toxic and are rejected or "dissolved" sooner than are stainless steel and cadmium-plated or nickel-plated hooks. Two types of hooks, barbless and circle hooks, are known to reduce injury and mortality of released fishes. Barbless hooks reduce tissue damage and handling stress because they can be removed quickly and easily.
Barbless hooks are popular in the freshwater trout fisheries and are becoming increasingly popular with saltwater anglers. A Florida study conducted on snappers and groupers demonstrated that catch rates are the same for barbed and barbless hooks. If barbless hooks are not available, simply use pliers to crimp or remove the barbs from regular hooks. A caveat is called for when using these types of hooks: after having hooked your quarry, don't give the fish any slack, because it will be more likely to escape from barbless hooks than from regular hooks.
The use of circle hooks has been researched and compared to regular hooks-often called "J" hooks-in several fisheries. In all of them except in the flatfish, or flounder, fishery, circle hooks were shown to result in significantly lower hooking mortality and higher catch rates.
Circle hooks reduced deep hooking fourfold in the striped bass fishery while "J" hooks were 21 times more likely to cause a bleeding injury. Circle hooks are a bit more tedious to use, especially with live bait, but the advantages should compel anglers to give them an honest trial. Overall, research shows that circle hooks improve catch rates and reduce hooking mortality which results in positive impacts on exploited fish stocks.
Studies on striped bass, spotted seatrout, and snook have shown that live bait was used in most cases of hook-related mortality and that "gut hooking" was the primary cause of death. Artificial lures are generally in motion, so the fish takes the bait and the hook is set before the lure can be swallowed.
To avoid internal damage from gut hooking, when you use live or dead bait try to set the hook immediately; with natural bait, there is less motion-the fishes' immediate reaction is to swallow the bait.
If you allow the fish to run with the bait, the chances of gut hooking the fish increase. Survival rates for some Florida fishes Controlled studies have shown that most fish released after hook-and-line capture, survive. Researchers working in Boca Grande Pass tagged 27 tarpon with sonic transmitters and found that 26 of these hook-and-line-caught fish survived. The one fish that died had been lifted from the water for a prerelease photograph.
A few of the bonefish that ultimately died had been caught five to ten times each, which suggests that bonefish hooked and released in the wild probably have an even higher survival rate. Most of the snook that died were caught with live bait, consistent with studies showing that fish caught with lures generally survive. Hook position affected survival rates; trout hooked in the gills or gut had lower survival rates than those hooked in the mouth. These studies demonstrate that catch-and-release-fishing works-most fish that are released survive.
By following a few simple guidelines, anglers can maximize survival rates. Venting distended gas bladders Release of sublegal-sized groupers and snappers is imperative because of increased minimum sizes and implementation of bag limits. When these fishes are hauled from depths greater than about 30 feet, their air bladders become distended and many times cause their stomachs to evert, or turn inside out, through their mouths.
But also be open to the idea that you may have done nothing wrong, and that your fish was simply destined to live a shortened life.
Because some types of fish are bred in large numbers you will sometimes find issues with the stock in a particular store. There could be issues with the supplier, or how the store handles the stock. All of that is out of your control. I hope this article was helpful for those who have lost fish and are trying to figure out why. I tried to cover all of the reasons aquarium fish die, but if you think I missed something let me know in the comments and I will try to help.
If you really want to keep fish, don't give up. Learn from your mistakes, do the necessary research, and get better. I think we all go through that process where we feel like all we are doing is endangering fish, but once you get it right it is so worth it. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.
Answer: Frozen bloodworms are an excellent food for aquarium fish, especially large fish, or juveniles in a growth phase. However, I think it is too easy for many aquarium owners to make mistakes with them and end up with bad results. Bloodworms are a rich food, and it is very easy to overfeed. The amount that comes in one of those little cubes is too much for most medium-sized aquariums. Accidentally overfeeding fish can lead to a host of fatal diseases, and with a rich food like this, the process seems accelerated.
The little-frozen cubes should be defrosted before feeding. I just put them in a small cup of water and let them sit until they are fully defrosted. Never simply toss the frozen cube in the tank. Once the bloodworms are defrosted in the cup, it is important to rinse them and get rid of all the debris that came packed in the cube. So, it ends up fouling the tank water. Used correctly, bloodworms are a great source of calories for tropical fish. Make mistakes, and you could end up with sick fish.
Unless you are an experienced fish keeper, I advise only offering bloodworms as an occasional treat. Katheen - I couldn't possibly guess unless you give me more information about your tank.
What kind of catfish? What kind of glofish? Water parameters? What else is in the tank? We had to catfish in our aquarium with 5 glow fish. The two catfish grew up and died. What are we doing wrong? Does the fish appear to have any physical signs of illness or injury? What other fish are in the tank? Sometimes there isn't enough natural algae in the tank for them. Parameters are all fine. The floater finally passed yesterday, he really held on.
The other tetras seem fine for now. I have a 20 gallon tank that, for the past year and a half, has been home to 6 tetras and 3 blue rams. I purchased a male ram and he was beautiful. He only lasted a little over a week though. His gills turned bright red and soon he was dead.
Now the same has happened to my other rams and they are all dead. Any thoughts on how I can save my last remaining fish? Mile - Sorry, I am having trouble picturing what you mean. Can you explain about the tank not water turning cloudy?
New tank, new fish, but one looks like he went under the water filter and it upside down, looks like my tank, not water turned cloudy. Evelyn - Can you explain exactly what you did to to clean the tank thoroughly? You always want to do partial water changes, and there is rarely a reason to remove the fish from the tank. If you cleaned everything completely your tank is going to have to cycle again.
Cleaned the fish tank out throughly and put the fish bk in now 2 of the fish are dead and i dont want to lose the giant plec i need help plz. Brandi - I generally wouldn't advise keeping that many goldfish in a 30g, but I guess some people do it successfully. You mentioned the water parameters are in good shape, which has to be tough with growing goldfish in a 30g. Maybe you are just pushing the stocking a little too far?
I'd probably try sticking with the thriving fish for a while, and measuring water parameters every day or every other day. If all is well, I'd add another fish and continue to take readings every day. At that point I'd expect to have to do partial water changes every day to keep the water clean, until the microbe colony in the tank catches up to the extra fish. I assume you are looking out of signs of disease in the tanks.
Of course that could be another issue. Ive had an established goldfish tank for over a year and occasionally a fish dies off with no reason Google can explain.
I had 1 feeder goldfish from the start that held its ground through my learning curve. He died two days ago. Overnight i witnessed him get black spots with his fins tucked and the next day he was belly up. Two days later i find my fancy goldfish floating. Neither showed any sign of illness prior. I have 3 other goldfish that I've had about 7mo and a koi that's been in there two months. My levels are always good when tested.
I just can't understand why one or two die and the others thrive. Ive never been able to keep the fancy n bug eyed goldfish alive in this tank. They eat mostly flakes and few koi pellets. Debra - Sorry you lost your cories. Can you provide more info on your water conditions and setup? There is no way for me to guess what happened without more info. I had five or four Cat Cora's change the water out yesterday turn the light off this morning they're all dead what happened they were fine I don't know can you help.
Marc Paradise gourami are aggressive fish. Beware of weakened ice! Move to another location before the outboard hole becomes dangerously enlarged or water is no longer pushed onto the ice. Run the motor over relatively deep water so that bottom mud is not stirred up along with the water. The only long-term solution for winterkill lakes is to reverse the natural process of filling and enrichment eutrophication.
Dredging or sucking bottom sediments can increase the volume of water, reduce the nutrient-rich sediment, and reduce the growth of nuisance plants.
However, such projects are extremely costly, require a site for disposing of the bottom material, and may require a permit. Lake residents can help slow down the rate of eutrophication by keeping all types of plant fertilizers out of the lake. Spring kill occurs in lakes and rivers when fish survive the winter but die as the water warms rapidly in May and June.
It rarely claims many fish and is usually over in a couple of weeks. Spring kill is almost always due to natural causes beyond our influence. The usual victims are large bluegills and crappies, and other fish which spawn in the spring such as perch, bass, pike and suckers.
A combination of stresses is usually responsible. Fish come through the winter in a weakened condition because they've been eating at a reduced rate.
As the water warms, their metabolism increases and they divert much energy to strenuous spawning activities. In lakes, additional stress may be added during "turnover", which is when wave action stirs up bottom water low in oxygen and high in noxious gases.
Diseases and parasites also become more active and on a few occasions have been implicated in fish kills. Browsers that can not handle javascript will not be able to access some features of this site. Some functions of this site are disabled for browsers blocking jQuery.
Close Search Box. Official Website of Michigan. Information about Fish Kills Dead and dying fish are an ugly sight. Summer Kill Summer kill occasionally occurs in lakes and streams during extremely hot summer weather. Instead, place the diffuser on a pedestal or in a weighted 5-gallon bucket, or suspend it at least two feet off the bottom.
Aeration also helps accelerate the decay of organic matter, which helps reduce buildup. In addition, aeration will help circulate and aerate oxygen-deficient bottom water, thus preventing stratification and potential fish kills due to summer inversions.
Commercial aerators do an excellent job of aeration. The paddlewheel type is especially effective because it moves a large volume of water. During extremely hot weather, check your pond regularly at sunrise for signs of stressed fish. If you observe fish gulping at the surface during early morning hours, immediately stop feeding them and attempt to increase aeration.
Cultural methods, such as adding fresh water and deepening shallow areas of ponds when possible to limit vegetation growth and increase water volume, are also recommended. The recommended slope is for each 3 feet of distance from the shore there is a 1-foot drop. Limit animal waste from entering the pond to prevent excess organic matter buildup; excess organic matter can use up oxygen as it is broken down by bacteria.
Do not allow livestock to wade in the pond. Creating and maintaining a buffer strip around the edge of the pond to prevent animal wastes and fertilizers, which contribute to algal blooms and aquatic weed infestations, from entering the water can be very effective at reducing nutrient loading to ponds.
Buffer strip widths of anywhere from 20 to 50 feet are recommended. Prevent aquatic weeds from accumulating to excessive levels since they will use up large amounts of oxygen when they decompose. This can be achieved by mechanical, cultural, and chemical methods. If an herbicide application is necessary, treat no more than one-fourth to one-third of the pond at a time with 10 to 14 days in between treatments to prevent oxygen depletion and a resulting fish kill.
In addition, do not wait until your pond is overrun with weeds before deciding to apply an herbicide. It is always better to treat the problem at its early stages when weeds can be more easily controlled.
Aeration is also very effective at preventing winter fish kills, and can be achieved by maintaining an open water area during the winter and facilitating oxygen exchange from the atmosphere. The aeration system does not need to be run continuously all winter, only sparingly to minimize ice cover.
Turn it on when ice is forming on the pond and leave it off when the pond is ice-free. If your pond is iced over but aeration is not an option, winterkills can often be prevented by removing snow covering the ice on frozen ponds.
The snow blocks sunlight, thereby preventing submerged plants from oxygenating water through photosynthesis. A good rule to follow is if ice is 4 inches thick, it is safe to stand on. If the ice is unsafe, remove the snow from the shoreline areas where submerged vegetation would be located beneath the ice. Although fish kills caused by pesticides are not as common as those caused by oxygen depletion, some do occur. It is not easy to determine the cause of a fish kill, but fish that are affected by pesticides will generally show some of the following characteristics within 24 hours of a pesticide application:.
Unlike fish kills related to oxygen deficits where larger fish die first, in a pesticide-caused fish kill the smaller fish will die first. Additionally, pesticide-related fish kills can occur any time of the day, and the water will appear normal.
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